Located in the picturesque Wilson Promontory National Park, Refuge Cove is a sanctuary for those sailing through and around the southern coast of Victoria. The traditional land of the Bratauolung people, it is renowned for an abundance of seafood. Tucked away serenely, near the southernmost point of mainland Australia, where the land meets the often turbulent but beautiful waters of Bass Straight, it is aptly named.
We called in during the early weeks of January 2012 on our way around Australia.
We had left San Remo in the early morning mist on January 1st , barely able to make out the channel markers guiding us out, but anticipating a fairly easy day-sail to get to Refuge Cove. The conditions, as is often the case, were not quite what had been predicted and the forecast 10 knot winds turned out to be more like 5 knot wisps, leaving us travelling considerably slower than we had hoped for. By mid-afternoon we could see we were not going to make it to Refuge Cove in day light. Our cruising guide suggested there was a safe anchorage in the significantly closer Oberon Bay. This became our new goal.
Before getting to Oberon though we spotted Norman Bay. This bay was well shielded from the predominantly east/south east wind and as we got in closer we decided to check out its holding. Snuggled into the granite boulders that rise steeply towards lofty Mt Oberon behind it, the bay offered good protection from the wind and excellent holding in the sand. We decided to stay.
It was after 7pm by the time we had set our anchor, but still light, and not too late for a little swimming in the crystal clear, though chilly waters. The march flies were fierce and we were thankful for our fly screens, which we used for the first time!
The next morning with blue skies above us and smooth clear water beneath, it felt as if we had perfect conditions as we set off once more. Ahead we could see the southernmost island of the Ansey group enshrouded in mist and low cloud, resembling a mystic mountain with a halo. It was spectacular and enthralling. The wind was low, still blowing from the east/south east and our progress towards Refuge Cove was great. Then, as we began to pass the Ansey Islands everything changed. The wind turned on us, the swell, which had been running east at less than a meter suddenly got large and very choppy and we found ourselves in a completely different sea state. For the best part of two and a half hours we pretty much just sat still while trying to make some headway tacking back and forth towards South Point. It became apparent that today was not the day to get round to Refuge Cove!
We turned back, thinking that perhaps we would call in to Oberon Bay after all. However we could not get any internet signal so we kept going until we got back into Norman Bay. As soon as we started back we left the messy sea state behind and had an easy trip back in flat, calm seas! We spent another lovely day swimming in the calm waters of Norman Bay, chatting to several kayakers who paddled past us, and one intrepid swimmer who came all the way from the shore to say hello!
The following morning the weather report indicated a very calm sea state and so we set off for another try at getting to Refuge Cove. What a difference a day makes, they say, just 24 little hours! All the messiness of the previous day was gone. We passed the now familiar Ansey Islands, and were surprised to see the furthest one completely free of mist and cloud. We rounded the corner towards South Point with no trouble at all and in no time were passing Waterloo Bay where Joshua Slocum, who completed the first solo circumnavigation of the world, stopped and then we were there. In less than three hours!
Sailing into Refuge Cove was spectacular. The massive granite boulders of Norman Bay were still the dominant feature, rolled like giant marbles to line the water’s edge, forming the most protected cove. The steep slope of the tree clad hills as they rush down to meet the sea and the mighty granite formations surrounding the cove are picture-postcard images, and the clear waters so inviting. It is a breathtakingly beautiful place. The cove itself has three basins, one as you turn in from the south, then the main one and then one more directly east. At the far end of the more easterly basin lies the tiniest little nook generally known as honeymoon corner, where one small yacht can nestle in and lie secure. As we turned into the main part of the Cove we could see we were not alone. Five yachts were nestled in already and we set about finding a suitable spot to join them.
We were still gaining skill and experience with anchoring but knew that it was important to drop it and then reverse allowing the anchor to dig in deeply. After a couple of fails where the anchor snagged on weed, we dug in nicely and after Peter donned his dive gear and went to check it visually, were satisfied that we had set it well. We were anchored near the other boats but with plenty of room for movement with the tide and wind.
As soon as we were set the children were into their swimmers and off – swimming toward the beach, which was about 50 meters away from us. Peter and I hopped into the dinghy and rowed across to one of the other yachts to say hello.
There were a couple of yachts from a Westernport bay yacht club who had all sailed down to spend a few days in the Cove, and then a couple of others, all from Melbourne and surrounding areas. This was our first experience with other sailors in such a secluded spot, and all the things we had read about sundowners’ came to life for us! Up until then, most of our sailing from West Australia had been a fairly solitary business. Suddenly we were hopping from one boat to another and being visited in between!
On our first day five other yachts had arrived, joining the six of us already there, though the Cove can accommodate many. A Parks Ranger informed us that over some Christmas periods there had been up to forty yachts all anchored in the Cove, making the crowd suddenly seem tiny to us!
A big blow was set to come through in the next couple of days so many yachts journeying through the area had pulled into the cove to seek refuge. Over the following few days more came. A couple of Catamarans, one on its way back to Tasmania where its owners were from, and one coming from Tassie after the Melbourne to Launceston race. Over the course of the time we were there several other yachts came in, returning from the Melbourne to Launceston race.
The idyllic sunny hot days of languid swimming, reading and chatting gave way to several days of blowy boisterous conditions. Our anchor setting was put to the test as was that of several other boats. One or two had problems with anchor drag during the night and we watched as one minor collision occurred, though no damage was done. The conditions continued to deteriorate, making visits to other yachts harder and swimming impossible. And still more yachts came in.
Refuge cove is subject to a weather pattern we had not encountered before. Its unique topography allows wind bullets to literally shoot through the cove as wind is channelled down the steep slopes of Mt Oberon. This pattern feels most unusual and really tests anchors. We were introduced to the anchor snubber – a simple device that reduces shock on the anchor chain, much like a springer line reduces shock when you are tied to a jetty. Once attached the yacht sat more comfortably throughout the squalls and wind bullets that came our way.
From high on the hill overlooking the main part of the cove the weedy base is clearly visible. The holding in this part of the cove is not nearly as good as in the more easterly area and after an incident where another yacht anchored a little too close for our liking and we swung towards them with the tide, we decided to move around. Our anchor took a few goes to dig in in the deeper water, but there was less weed and it sat very well for days. Peter dived down several times to ensure we were properly set, and pedantically pulled the anchor up until he was satisfied with it!
A National Park, Refuge Cove is home to all manner of wildlife and plant species. Many had long walks through the bush, carefully avoiding areas of damage due to erosion and fire. We kept close to the beach and adjacent shore, exploring rocks and pools and collecting shells. After checking out information at the rangers station regarding acceptable fishing regulations, Peter hooked a huge squid and we were all on deck salivating when the squid-jig came untied and our tasty morsel swam away! We were however treated to several crab and abalone while we were there. The two or three days we had allowed for our stay had already become more than a week but the squally days and conditions at sea made it very difficult for anyone to contemplate leaving.
When we were close to running out of all our basic supplies, encouraged by a yacht that had just come down from there, we decided to brave the conditions and make a run up to Corner Inlet and Port Welshepool to restock, deciding to then stay there until the conditions improved enough for us to consider heading towards Eden. The conditions in Refuge Cove are so sheltered that it is impossible to gauge from within just how tricky it might be beyond. We started out okay and got as far as the channel markers for Corner Inlet, but the seas had built and the wind increased, making navigating into the narrow entry very difficult. In addition a tug was heading our way, pulling a gas rig in for servicing and over the radio came a continual warning to other shipping to allow them to pass. We made a big decision and turned our backs on the channel and the possibility of refilling our shelves and headed back to the sanctuary of the cove.
We were a little disappointed and somewhat frustrated but we were at least able to get internet signal during our trip and got some really good weather information, indicating that we should stay put for another few days at least but then there would be a window of good weather, making it possible for us to head north. Like us, most of the yachts anchored had planned to stay for a couple of days only and others too ran low on various supplies. By then we were down to all the food no one really likes, all the emergency supplies of tinned soup, baked beans and porridge for breakfast. Long gone was the bread, the flour, the milk and anything fresh. Our biggest oversight was in not bringing enough toilet paper! Thankfully one of the other yachts had plenty and happily passed us some rolls, as we in turn passed some of our excess soups on to others!
Over the next few days, in breaks from the squally conditions we would hop into the dinghy and head over to the beach for a walk in the fresh air or to another boat to check how people were going. Some yachts had access to HV radio and as people visited they shared the latest updates. On one occasion, knowing that we could get good internet signal just outside the cove, we pulled up the anchor and motored out to download the synoptic chart. Happily our on board photocopier meant we could send each visitor home with a copy, allowing them to make more informed decisions about when they might head off.
Finally the day came when the conditions were right. We woke early to find that the cove was just about empty. Every other yacht, except for a motor boat and one other that was getting ready as we watched, had left. Apparently no one wanted to miss the opportunity to head home! We got ready to depart ourselves. After 13 days we were very excited to be on our way again, though the cove had indeed lived up to its name!
Setting an Anchor Snubber
The major purpose of a snubber is to stop shock loadings in difficult conditions to ensure the anchor will stay well set. Attaching a snubber to the anchor chain even just a couple of feet down will be just enough to take the load off the windlass. This can reduce potential damage to the mainshaft of the windlass, but it won’t allow the snubber to stretch sufficiently to absorb shock loadings from strong winds or swell. It is a good idea to allow the snubber to sit just under the surface of the water allowing the chain to loop somewhat.
We have a dedicated length of rope we now use as our snubber. It is approximately 5 mts long, and is a sturdy 20 ml nylon line. We attach it using our larger stainless steel shackles. You can purchase a snubber from most marine hardware suppliers and there are of course a variety of types, styles, lengths etc. Overall we would suggest that many varieties would meet most needs and even a simple rope attached with a rolling hitch knot would do the job just as well – provide comfort for those on board and reduce pressure on the anchor chain.
We called in during the early weeks of January 2012 on our way around Australia.
We had left San Remo in the early morning mist on January 1st , barely able to make out the channel markers guiding us out, but anticipating a fairly easy day-sail to get to Refuge Cove. The conditions, as is often the case, were not quite what had been predicted and the forecast 10 knot winds turned out to be more like 5 knot wisps, leaving us travelling considerably slower than we had hoped for. By mid-afternoon we could see we were not going to make it to Refuge Cove in day light. Our cruising guide suggested there was a safe anchorage in the significantly closer Oberon Bay. This became our new goal.
Before getting to Oberon though we spotted Norman Bay. This bay was well shielded from the predominantly east/south east wind and as we got in closer we decided to check out its holding. Snuggled into the granite boulders that rise steeply towards lofty Mt Oberon behind it, the bay offered good protection from the wind and excellent holding in the sand. We decided to stay.
It was after 7pm by the time we had set our anchor, but still light, and not too late for a little swimming in the crystal clear, though chilly waters. The march flies were fierce and we were thankful for our fly screens, which we used for the first time!
The next morning with blue skies above us and smooth clear water beneath, it felt as if we had perfect conditions as we set off once more. Ahead we could see the southernmost island of the Ansey group enshrouded in mist and low cloud, resembling a mystic mountain with a halo. It was spectacular and enthralling. The wind was low, still blowing from the east/south east and our progress towards Refuge Cove was great. Then, as we began to pass the Ansey Islands everything changed. The wind turned on us, the swell, which had been running east at less than a meter suddenly got large and very choppy and we found ourselves in a completely different sea state. For the best part of two and a half hours we pretty much just sat still while trying to make some headway tacking back and forth towards South Point. It became apparent that today was not the day to get round to Refuge Cove!
We turned back, thinking that perhaps we would call in to Oberon Bay after all. However we could not get any internet signal so we kept going until we got back into Norman Bay. As soon as we started back we left the messy sea state behind and had an easy trip back in flat, calm seas! We spent another lovely day swimming in the calm waters of Norman Bay, chatting to several kayakers who paddled past us, and one intrepid swimmer who came all the way from the shore to say hello!
The following morning the weather report indicated a very calm sea state and so we set off for another try at getting to Refuge Cove. What a difference a day makes, they say, just 24 little hours! All the messiness of the previous day was gone. We passed the now familiar Ansey Islands, and were surprised to see the furthest one completely free of mist and cloud. We rounded the corner towards South Point with no trouble at all and in no time were passing Waterloo Bay where Joshua Slocum, who completed the first solo circumnavigation of the world, stopped and then we were there. In less than three hours!
Sailing into Refuge Cove was spectacular. The massive granite boulders of Norman Bay were still the dominant feature, rolled like giant marbles to line the water’s edge, forming the most protected cove. The steep slope of the tree clad hills as they rush down to meet the sea and the mighty granite formations surrounding the cove are picture-postcard images, and the clear waters so inviting. It is a breathtakingly beautiful place. The cove itself has three basins, one as you turn in from the south, then the main one and then one more directly east. At the far end of the more easterly basin lies the tiniest little nook generally known as honeymoon corner, where one small yacht can nestle in and lie secure. As we turned into the main part of the Cove we could see we were not alone. Five yachts were nestled in already and we set about finding a suitable spot to join them.
We were still gaining skill and experience with anchoring but knew that it was important to drop it and then reverse allowing the anchor to dig in deeply. After a couple of fails where the anchor snagged on weed, we dug in nicely and after Peter donned his dive gear and went to check it visually, were satisfied that we had set it well. We were anchored near the other boats but with plenty of room for movement with the tide and wind.
As soon as we were set the children were into their swimmers and off – swimming toward the beach, which was about 50 meters away from us. Peter and I hopped into the dinghy and rowed across to one of the other yachts to say hello.
There were a couple of yachts from a Westernport bay yacht club who had all sailed down to spend a few days in the Cove, and then a couple of others, all from Melbourne and surrounding areas. This was our first experience with other sailors in such a secluded spot, and all the things we had read about sundowners’ came to life for us! Up until then, most of our sailing from West Australia had been a fairly solitary business. Suddenly we were hopping from one boat to another and being visited in between!
On our first day five other yachts had arrived, joining the six of us already there, though the Cove can accommodate many. A Parks Ranger informed us that over some Christmas periods there had been up to forty yachts all anchored in the Cove, making the crowd suddenly seem tiny to us!
A big blow was set to come through in the next couple of days so many yachts journeying through the area had pulled into the cove to seek refuge. Over the following few days more came. A couple of Catamarans, one on its way back to Tasmania where its owners were from, and one coming from Tassie after the Melbourne to Launceston race. Over the course of the time we were there several other yachts came in, returning from the Melbourne to Launceston race.
The idyllic sunny hot days of languid swimming, reading and chatting gave way to several days of blowy boisterous conditions. Our anchor setting was put to the test as was that of several other boats. One or two had problems with anchor drag during the night and we watched as one minor collision occurred, though no damage was done. The conditions continued to deteriorate, making visits to other yachts harder and swimming impossible. And still more yachts came in.
Refuge cove is subject to a weather pattern we had not encountered before. Its unique topography allows wind bullets to literally shoot through the cove as wind is channelled down the steep slopes of Mt Oberon. This pattern feels most unusual and really tests anchors. We were introduced to the anchor snubber – a simple device that reduces shock on the anchor chain, much like a springer line reduces shock when you are tied to a jetty. Once attached the yacht sat more comfortably throughout the squalls and wind bullets that came our way.
From high on the hill overlooking the main part of the cove the weedy base is clearly visible. The holding in this part of the cove is not nearly as good as in the more easterly area and after an incident where another yacht anchored a little too close for our liking and we swung towards them with the tide, we decided to move around. Our anchor took a few goes to dig in in the deeper water, but there was less weed and it sat very well for days. Peter dived down several times to ensure we were properly set, and pedantically pulled the anchor up until he was satisfied with it!
A National Park, Refuge Cove is home to all manner of wildlife and plant species. Many had long walks through the bush, carefully avoiding areas of damage due to erosion and fire. We kept close to the beach and adjacent shore, exploring rocks and pools and collecting shells. After checking out information at the rangers station regarding acceptable fishing regulations, Peter hooked a huge squid and we were all on deck salivating when the squid-jig came untied and our tasty morsel swam away! We were however treated to several crab and abalone while we were there. The two or three days we had allowed for our stay had already become more than a week but the squally days and conditions at sea made it very difficult for anyone to contemplate leaving.
When we were close to running out of all our basic supplies, encouraged by a yacht that had just come down from there, we decided to brave the conditions and make a run up to Corner Inlet and Port Welshepool to restock, deciding to then stay there until the conditions improved enough for us to consider heading towards Eden. The conditions in Refuge Cove are so sheltered that it is impossible to gauge from within just how tricky it might be beyond. We started out okay and got as far as the channel markers for Corner Inlet, but the seas had built and the wind increased, making navigating into the narrow entry very difficult. In addition a tug was heading our way, pulling a gas rig in for servicing and over the radio came a continual warning to other shipping to allow them to pass. We made a big decision and turned our backs on the channel and the possibility of refilling our shelves and headed back to the sanctuary of the cove.
We were a little disappointed and somewhat frustrated but we were at least able to get internet signal during our trip and got some really good weather information, indicating that we should stay put for another few days at least but then there would be a window of good weather, making it possible for us to head north. Like us, most of the yachts anchored had planned to stay for a couple of days only and others too ran low on various supplies. By then we were down to all the food no one really likes, all the emergency supplies of tinned soup, baked beans and porridge for breakfast. Long gone was the bread, the flour, the milk and anything fresh. Our biggest oversight was in not bringing enough toilet paper! Thankfully one of the other yachts had plenty and happily passed us some rolls, as we in turn passed some of our excess soups on to others!
Over the next few days, in breaks from the squally conditions we would hop into the dinghy and head over to the beach for a walk in the fresh air or to another boat to check how people were going. Some yachts had access to HV radio and as people visited they shared the latest updates. On one occasion, knowing that we could get good internet signal just outside the cove, we pulled up the anchor and motored out to download the synoptic chart. Happily our on board photocopier meant we could send each visitor home with a copy, allowing them to make more informed decisions about when they might head off.
Finally the day came when the conditions were right. We woke early to find that the cove was just about empty. Every other yacht, except for a motor boat and one other that was getting ready as we watched, had left. Apparently no one wanted to miss the opportunity to head home! We got ready to depart ourselves. After 13 days we were very excited to be on our way again, though the cove had indeed lived up to its name!
Setting an Anchor Snubber
The major purpose of a snubber is to stop shock loadings in difficult conditions to ensure the anchor will stay well set. Attaching a snubber to the anchor chain even just a couple of feet down will be just enough to take the load off the windlass. This can reduce potential damage to the mainshaft of the windlass, but it won’t allow the snubber to stretch sufficiently to absorb shock loadings from strong winds or swell. It is a good idea to allow the snubber to sit just under the surface of the water allowing the chain to loop somewhat.
We have a dedicated length of rope we now use as our snubber. It is approximately 5 mts long, and is a sturdy 20 ml nylon line. We attach it using our larger stainless steel shackles. You can purchase a snubber from most marine hardware suppliers and there are of course a variety of types, styles, lengths etc. Overall we would suggest that many varieties would meet most needs and even a simple rope attached with a rolling hitch knot would do the job just as well – provide comfort for those on board and reduce pressure on the anchor chain.
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